Three months after the Watches and Wonders announcement, I finally handled the Black Bay 58 Burgundy at my local AD. First impressions matter, and this one impressed.
The Color # Photos don’t capture it. The bezel insert shifts from deep wine to almost brown depending on lighting. In direct sunlight, there’s warmth. Indoors under artificial light, it goes darker.
Seiko has been timing world athletics events since 1964. For the 2025 World Championships in Tokyo, they’re releasing a limited edition Speedtimer that actually looks worth buying.
The Watch # The Prospex Speedtimer Solar Chronograph in blue and gold colorway. The blue references the Tokyo skyline at dusk. The gold accents celebrate the championship medals.
I rarely get excited about new watch brands. The market is flooded with Kickstarter projects that promise the moon and deliver mediocrity. Another microbrand with a Miyota movement and generic case? Hard pass.
Grand Seiko just claimed the accuracy crown. The new UFA (Ultra-Fine Accuracy) movement achieves ±20 seconds per year. Not per month. Per year.
That’s staggering for any watch using a mainspring.
Walked into a watch boutique today with zero intention of purchasing anything.
Just wanted to see some new releases. Handle the Tudor Burgundy. Look at the Land-Dweller in person. Get a feel for current stock.
I’ve seen more Land-Dweller content in the past six weeks than I’ve seen for any watch release ever. Every YouTube channel. Every forum. Every Instagram account.
And I can’t decide if it’s genuinely exciting or just hype-cycle machinery doing what it does.
Four months after the January increase, Rolex bumped prices again. This time by 4%, effective May 1st.
Two price increases in five months. That’s new territory even for Rolex.
The Math Adds Up Badly # That Submariner Date that cost €9,550 in December 2024? After January’s 5% jump, it was €10,030. Now it’s €10,430.
Tudor had a strong showing at Watches and Wonders 2025. Nothing revolutionary, but solid expansion of their lineup in directions that make sense.
Black Bay 58 Burgundy # This is the headline. A deep wine-red bezel on the 39mm Black Bay 58 platform. Tudor calls it burgundy, but it shifts between dark red and brown depending on lighting.
“What watch should I buy as my first nice watch?”
I get this question weekly. And I’ve stopped giving direct answers.
Not because I don’t have opinions. I have too many opinions. But the question reveals a misunderstanding about what makes a watch valuable.
Cartier’s best announcement at Watches and Wonders wasn’t a Santos or a Panthère. It was a rectangular watch with no visible hands.
The Tank à Guichets is back. Originally introduced in 1928, this jumping hour complication disappeared from the catalog around 2005. Now it returns as part of the Privé collection.
