A €50 quartz keeps better time than a €5,000 automatic. Everyone knows this. So why do people still buy mechanicals?
Because accuracy isn’t the point. But let’s talk about what you’re actually paying for when you buy an automatic watch.
The Movement #
Entry-level automatics (€200-500) usually run Seiko NH35, Miyota 8215, or ETA 2824 clones. These are workhorses. Reliable, serviceable, accurate to +/- 20 seconds per day if you’re lucky. Sometimes worse.
Mid-range (€1,000-3,000) might get you an ETA 2892, Sellita SW300, or a base Seiko 6R or 4R movement with better finishing. You’re paying for thinner profiles, better accuracy (maybe +/- 10 sec/day), and decoration you’ll never see unless you flip the watch over.
High-end (€5,000+) is where in-house movements appear. Now you’re paying for brand prestige, R&D costs, and finishing that actually matters if you care about that stuff. Accuracy might be +/- 2 sec/day, or it might still be +/- 10 because mechanical watches are temperamental.
I wore a €300 Seiko with an NH35 and a €2,000 Hamilton with an H-10 (modified ETA) back-to-back for a month. The Seiko ran at +18 sec/day. The Hamilton ran at +6. Both drifted depending on wrist time and position.
Was the Hamilton worth 6x the price for 12 seconds of accuracy? Not for timekeeping. But the finishing was noticeably better, and it felt more solid. Subjective stuff.
Case and Finishing #
Cheap watches (under €300) are often stamped or cast cases with brushed surfaces that look decent from a distance. Up close, you’ll see uneven lines, sharp edges, tool marks.
Mid-tier watches (€500-2,000) usually have better machining. Brushed surfaces are cleaner, polished edges are sharper, everything fits tighter. The bracelet won’t rattle or have sharp links.
High-end cases (€3,000+) are where you get hand-finished bevels, Zaratsu polishing, and cases machined from single blocks of steel. This stuff is invisible in photos and irrelevant for function. If you care, you care. If you don’t, save the money.
I picked up a used watch once (won’t name it, but it cost someone €4,000 new) and immediately noticed a misaligned rehaut and a wobbly crown. Quality control matters more than price.
Lume #
Cheap watches use basic lume or none at all. It glows for 20 minutes and dies.
Good watches (€300+) use Swiss Super-LumiNova or Japanese equivalent. Specifically BGW9 (blue-green) or C3 (green). These glow strong for 1-2 hours and stay faintly visible for 6-8.
Great watches (€1,000+) might use thicker applications or multiple layers. The difference between good and great lume is maybe 30 minutes of extra glow. Not worth paying double for.
I tested this with a Seiko Alpinist (C3 lume) and a Tudor Black Bay (Super-LumiNova). The Tudor glowed slightly longer, but both were useless by morning. Tritium tubes (like on Ball or Marathon) stay lit for 10+ years, but the glow is dimmer.
Pick your compromise.
Bracelet Quality #
This is where cheap watches hurt you. Literally. Stamped clasps, hollow end links, rattly construction. You’ll hate wearing it within a week.
A solid bracelet costs €100-200 to manufacture properly. Tooling, machining, finishing, quality control. Brands that sell €300 watches with solid bracelets are taking a hit on margins. Respect that.
I wore a €200 microbrand once with a folded-link bracelet. It pinched my wrist hair every day and felt flimsy. Swapped it for a NATO strap immediately. The watch was fine. The bracelet ruined it.
At €1,000+, you should expect solid links, a good clasp, and no sharp edges. If you don’t get that, the brand is ripping you off.
Brand Tax #
Some of it is real (R&D, in-house movements, better QC). Most of it is marketing and heritage.
A Rolex Submariner costs maybe €1,500 to make. It sells for €9,000+. The difference is brand equity, demand, and the fact that people will pay it. That’s not a scam - it’s just how luxury goods work.
Microbrands and new brands skip the heritage tax. You get similar specs for less money, but zero resale value and questionable long-term support. Sometimes worth it. Sometimes not.
I bought a microbrand diver for €400 that wore like a €1,200 watch. Three years later, the brand disappeared and I can’t get it serviced. Lesson learned.
What Actually Matters #
If you’re spending under €500: movement reliability, lume quality, case finishing, bracelet comfort. Don’t pay for in-house movements or brand names.
€500-2,000: now you can care about better accuracy, finishing details, and brand reputation. Still not worth chasing in-house unless you want it for emotional reasons.
€2,000+: you’re paying for heritage, exclusivity, and diminishing returns. Only worth it if you know exactly why you want it.
I think the sweet spot is €500-1,500. You get reliable movements, solid build quality, and none of the luxury tax. Above that, you’re buying feelings, not function.
But maybe feelings are the whole point. I’m still figuring that out.
