Tudor announced the Black Bay 58 GMT at Watches & Wonders this month. 39mm case, Manufacture Calibre MT5400 with GMT function, 200m water resistance. €4,200.
This is what people have been asking for since the regular 58 launched. The 41mm Black Bay GMT was fine, but too big for a lot of wrists. 39mm makes it wearable for daily use.
Tissot discontinued the PRX Powermatic 80 in its original 40mm size. Still making the 35mm version and the chronograph, but the automatic that everyone actually wanted? Gone from the 2026 catalog.
Zenith turned 160 in 2025. They marked it by resurrecting one of the most decorated movements in Swiss history.
The GFJ houses a modernized Caliber 135 - the hand-wound movement that won over 230 chronometry awards between 1950 and 1960. No other movement in history has matched that record.
Every watchmaker knows: keep magnets away from mechanical movements. Breguet just broke that rule on purpose.
The Expérimentale 1 uses magnetism to regulate timekeeping. Not despite magnetism - because of it.
Tudor’s first moonphase complication isn’t a Black Bay. It’s a dress watch. And the price makes sense.
The Watch # The 1926 Luna builds on Tudor’s entry-level dress watch platform. 39mm case, domed dial, minimal complications - except now there’s a moonphase at 6 o’clock.
Tudor quietly expanded the Ranger lineup. No press event, just new references appearing on the website. Classic Tudor move.
What’s New # 36mm Case Size
The Speedmaster Dark Side of the Moon gets a refresh. Ceramic everything, updated movement, refined details.
The Changes # The new DSOTM keeps the 44.25mm black ceramic case that defined the original. But the internal movement has been upgraded to the Co-Axial Master Chronometer caliber 3861 - same as the current Moonwatch Professional.
The Citizen Aqualand is back. And for once, a 40th anniversary edition actually matters.
Why This Matters # In 1985, Citizen released the original Aqualand - the world’s first watch with an electronic depth sensor. While other brands were making analog dive watches with rotating bezels, Citizen built something that could actually tell you how deep you were.
I’ve been watching the vintage watch market for 15 years. What’s happening now makes no sense.
The Numbers # A beat-up Rolex 1016 Explorer that sold for €4,000 in 2015 now commands €25,000+. Same watch. Same condition. Different decade.
Three months after the Watches and Wonders announcement, I finally handled the Black Bay 58 Burgundy at my local AD. First impressions matter, and this one impressed.
The Color # Photos don’t capture it. The bezel insert shifts from deep wine to almost brown depending on lighting. In direct sunlight, there’s warmth. Indoors under artificial light, it goes darker.